The
confluence of the Thompson and Fraser Rivers near Lytton,
northwest of Vancouver
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The most indelible
natural scratch on British Columbia's beautiful surface is the Rocky
Mountain Trench, the longest and straightest valley in the province.
Never widening to more than 20 kilometres, it skirts the western edge
of the Rockies for 1,400 kilometres from Montana to Yukon. Each of
BC's four largest rivers - the Fraser, Columbia, Peace, and Liard
- travel through parts of the trench. Most pervasive is the Fraser
River, the lifeblood of British Columbia, with arteries that reach
deep into the heart of the province.
Nearly 1,400
long, the Fraser River is Canada's fifth-largest river system, and
drains an area of 231,313 square kilometres From its headwaters
near Mount Robson to the sea at Vancouver, it collects the runoff
from mountains on opposite sides of BC through its massive tributaries,
the Nechako, Quesnel, Chilcotin, Thompson, McGregor, West Road,
Cottonwood, Bridge, Coquihalla, Chilliwack, Harrison and Pitt Rivers.
The Nahatlatch,
Fraser, and Thompson Rivers are all justifiably well
known for their riverrafting experiences. Of the three, the Fraser
and Thompson are more prominent, though not necessarily more challenging
than the Nahatlatch. In fact, the Nahatlatch provides more excitement
in its varied run than either of the others. Both the Thompson and
the Nahatlatch flow into the Fraser within a short distance of each
other. The season begins in May, once water levels become manageable.
Although it's entirely possible to run these rivers unaccompanied,
the majority of paddlers opt for the services of a certified guide,
at least the first time.
The Fraser
River in the Cariboo Region
Returning salmon use the Fraser to reach their spawning beds in
the upper reaches of the Thompson, Adams, Clearwater and Quesnel
Rivers. In a region made famous by its gold rush, you too can pan
for gold. The Cariboo stampede of the 1850s and '60s may be just
a memory, but that doesn't keep the Fraser from washing down a few
more grains and nuggets each spring onto these shores. The staff
at the Lytton Visitor Centre can assist you in your search at Lytton's
Gold Panning Recreation Reserve on the Fraser River. Hwy 12 from
Lytton to Lillooet runs along the Fraser River, a good way to see
this important waterway.
The Fraser
River in the Greater Vancouver Region
Life on the Fraser River is often best viewed from a beach. Unfortunately,
many of the river's best beaches (or 'bars') in the Greater Vancouver
area are leased to lumber companies for logging booms. Several exceptions
lie on either side of Fort Langley, at Derby Reach Regional Park
and Glen Valley Regional Park. The hard-packed beaches at Derby
Reach's Edgewater Bar and Glen Valley's Two Bit, Poplar, and Duncan
Bars are wide, gently sloping stretches of sand, perfect to stroll
on while watching the river flow. Blue herons glide by above, while
in the river a seal will occasionally poke up its head to check
you out, sometimes with a fish in its mouth. Although 30 miles (50
km) upriver from the mouth of the Fraser, tidal action in the river
is still powerful enough to leave more (or less) of the beach exposed,
depending on the time of your visit.
One of the best
ways to get a feeling for the Fraser River in the Fraser
Estuary is from a small boat such as a canoe or kayak. Although
the Fraser River powers its way through the estuary in three main
channels, there are numerous backwaters where the current is not
as strong nor the wakes from passing tugboats and freighters as
intimidating. Try launching at Deas Slough and explore the nearby
Ladner Marsh area. There are two approaches, one from Deas Island
Regional Park and the other from the public boat launch at the north
end of Ferry Road on the outskirts of Ladner.
The boat ramp
on Ferry Road at the west end of Deas Slough is vehicle accessible.
This is where anglers, water-skiers, jet boats, canoes, and kayaks
launch. To reach Ferry Road, take the Ladner exit immediately south
of the George Massey Tunnel on Hwy 99. Drive west on River Road
to Ferry Road. Turn east on Ferry and drive to the launch ramp.
From here, Deas Island's rocky-pointed snout is only a quick paddle
away. The full girth of the Fraser River's South Arm lies on the
far side of Deas Island and should be paddled only at slack tide.
During falling tides, currents in the Fraser can reach almost 7
miles (11 km) per hour, although you won't experience these conditions
in the backwater on Deas's south side. The heart of Deas Slough
is equidistant from either Ferry Road or Deas Island Park.
Alexandra
Bridge Provincial Park, about 14 miles (22 km) north of Yale
on Hwy 1, provides an interesting place to stop in the Fraser Canyon.
An interpretative display gives picnickers an idea of the canyon's
history. The canyon was a major obstacle to transportation developers
who needed to link interior locales with the rapidly urbanizing
coastal settlements, and it has seen the passing of Simon Fraser;
the road building of the Royal Engineers; the fur brigade; thousands
of gold seekers; railway, highway, and bridge builders; and early
truckers. Since the Cariboo gold-rush days of the 1860s, a strategically
located bridge has spanned the Fraser River here. The original,
Joseph Trutch's spectacular suspension bridge, opened in 1862. A
second Alexandra Bridge washed out in the flood of 1887, and a subsequent
replacement built in 1925 is now a neglected relic.
Since 1965,
travellers on Hwy 1 cross the Fraser River downstream from the park
over a four-lane, orange-arched beauty. Look up the canyon from
here and you'll get a quick glimpse of its silver-coated predecessor,
which still has some flash left in its boiler-plate finish. The
old bridge leads nowhere and, like a monument desecrated by rebellion,
has been stripped of officialdom. Graffiti-scratching day trippers
took over when the old bridge was decommissioned. One of oldest
of the many well-preserved markings reads, Eddie's getting married
'65.
Nearest Towns: Tete
Jaune Cache, McBride,
Prince George, Quesnel,
Williams Lake, Lillooet,
Lytton, Hope
Nearest
Parks: Churn Creek Provincial Park,
Edge Hills Provincial Park, Emory
Creek Provincial Park, Alexandra Bridge Provincial Park
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